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Ultrasound, most commonly associated with pregnancy, is not something you may expect to hear at a veterinary office. However, due to improvements in technology, an ultrasound may be something your veterinarian recommends to help diagnose your pet for a number of potential ailments.

An ultrasound is a non-invasive procedure similar to an x-ray. It works by sending sound waves through tissue and recording the waves as they are reflected back. Those reflections are then transformed into images of organs and other objects for your veterinarian to study. In simplest terms, an ultrasound produces a moving picture of an organ or body part as it is actually functioning.

Most commonly used as a diagnostic tool to evaluate diseases of the heart, liver, pancreas, kidney, intestine, spleen, urinary bladder and other organs located in the abdomen, your veterinarian is able to learn valuable information about the health of these organs. Since the pet is usually on his or her back for an ultrasound procedure, sedation or short acting anesthesia may be required. Regardless if sedation is used, ultrasound is an out-patient procedure, usually allowing your pet to go home the same day.

The benefits of ultrasound are enormous. Diseases that would otherwise go undetected can be diagnosed early. If a biopsy is needed, it can be accomplished during an ultrasound. An ultrasound can also replace an exploratory surgery, which can sometimes lead to more serious complications.

Although there are other parts of the body that can be studied with ultrasound, abdominal and cardiac ultrasound are the most common in veterinary medicine.

Abdominal Ultrasound

Abdominal ultrasound is used to evaluate pets with symptoms such as vomiting, diarrhea, straining to urinate or urinating blood. It can also be helpful in cases of reproductive abnormalities, weight loss and to detect early pregnancy. When physical examination and blood tests indicate a problem with a particular organ, an ultrasonic examination can provide additional information or even a diagnosis.

In order for the ultrasound to produce the best possible picture, a small amount of fur needs to be shaved from the abdomen. After the fur is shaved, the examiner places a probe on the skin of the abdomen and moves it across the surface to examine the organs or regions of interest. An ultrasound can identify organ abnormalities, abdominal masses, tumors, fluid and abnormal lymph nodes.

Echocardiography

An ultrasound of the heart is more commonly known as an echocardiogram. Defined as an ultrasonic examination of the heart, the procedure itself is very similar to that of an abdominal ultrasound.

An ultrasound allows the veterinarian to see inside your pet’s heart. The functioning of the heart valves, the thickness of the heart muscle and the contractions of the heart can all be assessed. Along with a diagnosis, an echocardiogram also allows the veterinarian to determine the best treatment plan for your pet’s condition.

Ultrasound has become a very useful diagnostic tool in veterinary medicine. To a large extent, ultrasound has replaced exploratory abdominal surgery. Along with radiography, ultrasound can also be used to diagnose and treat most heart diseases that occur in dogs and cats.

By Mike Herstik

As I drive down the street, I look at my best friend sitting next to me. His two dark eyes stare at me intensely and his tail beats rhythmically against the side of the door. I stop my truck, open the passenger door, and a small but sturdy black Lab. jumps down to the ground

His name is Striker; he is solid as a rock and an exceptional athlete. Not knowing what we're about to do, his body is already vibrating with energy and excitement.

On a command, Striker can scale a 7-foot wall in just seconds. But what really makes him special is his nose. Striker is an explosives detection dog. He is a virtual dynamo waiting for a search command. When working, he is focused, relentless and obsessive. He does not quit.

He can be counted on to work with vigor and energy, far surpassing an average pet dog. This is a good thing, because lives depend on his ability. But as a pet, Striker would probably be diagnosed as "hyperactive."

His energetic behavior might even be misinterpreted as a lack of intelligence. Kept in a backyard, without a regular opportunity to burn up his energy, he would probably develop various anxiety-related destructive behaviors. But he is not a hyper dog. He is a super dog.

Situation is everything. In one situation, a dog may be a hard working hero. The same dog in a different living situation may seem like a curse to his master. While a high energy level is not in itself indicative of abnormal behavior, without a release, it may lead to abnormality.

Most dogs were originally bred for a functional purpose. By making them into pets, we have tried to alter their innate characteristics. We have somewhat changed their cosmetic appearance and have eliminated or watered down temperament characteristics and qualities that originally brought about their creation.

Terriers were originally bred to pursue vermin with a maniacal drive. Hunting breeds have always needed tremendous physical stamina and energy in order to perform their tasks. Herding dogs tirelessly worked the fields. Have you considered for a moment the rigorous job of a sled dog?

Originally, a dog was obtained according to the work that was needed to be performed. The dog's inherent energy, behavior, and drive were channeled into their job. Energy was needed to perform functional tasks. Breeds, once valued for their working ability, have now found themselves in situations where they have no opportunity to use their energy.

Many dogs still exhibit the energy that contributed to the form and function of their breed. When cared for properly, these dogs do well. When left isolated for long periods of time, these types of dogs become desperate for social interaction and behave in uncontrollable ways. They commonly develop destructive habits as a release mechanism for their frustration. The more ill mannered the dog becomes, the less pleasant he or she is to be around. And the less pleasant the dog is to be around, the less socialization the dog gets. It's a vicious cycle.

Purebred dogs are often selected as pets purely because people like their appearance. Little research actually goes into the breed's physical and behavioral characteristics. Through indiscriminate breeding policies, their bloodlines work their way into many of the mixed breeds we see at shelters and rescue agencies.

Lets say you own one of these "hyper" dogs. You probably don't need your dog to pull a sled or herd sheep or hunt foxes. So how do you live with him? How do you get him to be a great pet and a pleasure in your life? The solution is based on various forms of interaction with your dog.

Virtually all dogs and owners benefit from good obedience training. Control of your dog is necessary so that you can instill the manners your dog needs in order to be socialized. Obedience training also helps to establish the foundation of communication between you and your dog. Proper obedience training helps to eliminate the anxiety your dog may feel as a result of being confused.

Make sure your dog has ready access to toys he likes. Quality toys are best – those that are not quickly destroyed or ingested. If he likes to retrieve, try to spend time each day playing fetch with his favorite toy.

For dogs that are sociable and like to interact with other dogs, doggy day care facilities are great. Your dog can romp around all day with other dogs, burning up energy while you are at work. If you are athletic, take your dog jogging or biking. The Springer attachment (made for bikes) works very well.

If you are too busy and cannot exercise your dog regularly, have a dog walker come by the house to take your pooch out for excursions. Visiting a dog park regularly is fun for people and pets. Get involved in a dog sport: Agility is a wonderful dog sport that is open to virtually any dog that is sociable and physically sound. If your dog has the right drives, fly ball is great. If you have a herding dog, herd training is a good hobby.

Schutzhund is a challenging sport that does require a dog with very special inherent aptitudes and significant handler dedication.

Owning a dog is a major responsibility. Before selecting a dog, do some research and get one that fits your lifestyle. Dogs are not inanimate objects that can be neglected. They are intelligent, social animals that require quality time, dedication and love in order to be psychologically healthy.

Mike Herstik (International K-9), is a consultant to law enforcement, military and government agencies. A professional dog trainer for more than 20 years, Herstik is the dog trainer for the LAPD Bomb Squad.

The claws are the primary weapon in the feline arsenal. In addition to providing an iron grip for climbing, a cat's claws can be lethal, quickly un-holstered to slash at an enemy or rip open a soft underbelly. Although the claws are often described as retractable, the claws are, in fact, hidden until the cat's paw is extended. Safely sheathed when the cat is relaxed, even while it is walking, the claws stay sharp, ready for action. During a post-nap stretch or an angry swipe, the tendons controlling the claws are pulled taut, thrusting the nails outwards.

Though seemingly incorrigible scratchers, cats rake their claws over rough surfaces to both clean and hone them. The raking motion also helps shed the claws' dead and dulled outer layers and helps exercise the leg muscles. Just as importantly, scratching allows the cat to leave its calling card, a territory marking scent released from the paw pads.

So now that you know the biology behind it and that scratching is a natural behavior for cats, how are you going to convince your cat that your sofa is nicer UN-shredded? Start off on the right foot (or paw) with universal advice from Mark Twain, "Never try to teach a pig how to sing; it frustrates you and annoys the pig". Keep in mind that cats like to scratch and generally need to scratch so you are never going to be able to stop the behavior. Your job as protector of your furniture is to re-direct your cat's scratching to an area that is acceptable to both of you.

Step one in the "great scratching compromise" is to get your beloved a scratching post. Bear in mind that your idea of a desirable scratching post and your kitty's idea may not coincide. Cats like rough surfaces that they can shred to pieces (the exception, of course, is your chenille couch, which has its own particular appeal). The scratching post with the most aesthetic appeal to your cat is often a tree stump, though this can be a bit unwieldy. Whatever you and your cat choose, it has to be tall enough for her to fully extend her body, and most importantly, secure enough to withstand the push and pull of her claws. If it topples over right from the start, chances are your cat will not go back to it. A sisal post or a carpet remnant (make sure it's secure) are always good choices.

Once a scratching post has been agreed upon, the location is important. You want it in a central location in relation to where you or your family normally hangs out. If the post is in a remote location of the house, your cat is less likely to use it because it is not convenient, hence your sofa's premature demise! Encourage your cat to use the post with clever enticements. Feed her and play with her by the post. Rub dried catnip leaves or powder into it. Make all association with the post a pleasant one.

If your cat is reluctant to give up her old scratching areas, you may have to employ discouraging tactics. Using lemon-scented sprays or potpourri of lemon and orange peels on or near her old haunts may work. Cats have a natural aversion to citrus smells. If this doesn't work, try squirting her with a water gun or spray bottle, blowing a whistle or other noise maker, every time you CATCH her scratching. You must use these deterrents while she is scratching, in order for them to be effective.

If the scratching post becomes an unsuccessful attempt at persuading your cat to scratch something else besides your stereo speakers, you may need to employ alternate solutions. These range from trimming your cat's nails regularly and / or applying protective guards, to surgically removing the entire claw from your cat's toes, otherwise known as de-clawing.

Though trimming your cat's nails may defray some of your cat's potential for destruction, it does not stop her from scratching. By keeping them short, it makes them less sharp. The longer they get, the sharper they become as a result of scratching. If you are unable to trim your cat's nails by yourself, many groomers or veterinarians provide the service at a minimal cost. Even if your cat uses a scratching post regularly, it is wise to keep her nails trim to help her avoid getting stuck to the carpet or your sweater after you've snuggled her.

Soft Paws are another great option. These are lightweight vinyl caps that are applied over your cat's own claws. They have rounded edges so your cat's scratching doesn't damage your home and furnishings. They last for approximately six weeks or however long it takes for your cat's nails to grow out of them. They are generally applied only to the front paws since those are the most destructive of the four. Soft Paws come in a kit and are easy to apply using the cap and adhesive. If you find it difficult to apply them to your cat, at least initially, your veterinarian or groomer may be able to do it for you for a nominal fee.

A third option is de-clawing. A surgical procedure, de-clawing involves the total removal of your cat's nails. It is a non-reversible procedure, but is extremely effective in protecting your furniture. Though an effective option, it is not recommended for cats that go outside regularly as they lose their ability to defend themselves with their claws. Since it is a surgical procedure requiring anesthesia, schedule an appointment with your veterinarian to discuss the procedure.

Ultimately, your cat chooses her favorite place to scratch. However, it is up to you to give her suggestions and persuade her to use an area you have chosen. Training your cat to do what you want takes a lot of patience. Remember to reinforce good and wanted behavior and deter unwanted behavior. Once you and your cat have found a suitable solution, your house and furniture are going to thank you for your perseverance!!!

The introduction of pain relieving medications for dogs has improved the lives of millions of dogs in the United States and across the globe. Some pet owners are concerned about Internet rumors of severe side effects and have chosen not to give these medications to their pets. Are these drugs safe or are we putting our dogs at risk? New research and experience trials are giving us the answers. Watch this video to learn more.

The lens of the eye is the clear structure which focuses the image onto the retina. The lens is located behind the iris, the central portion being exposed by the pupil. The lens is normally suspended between the iris and the retina, held in position by the zonules (small fibers which are attached to the perimeter of the lens and to the ciliary body) and the adjacent vitreous.

Normal Eye

Lens luxation occurs as a result of the zonules becoming weakened or stretched. The separation of the lens from the zonules can be complete or partial. If the lens completely detaches from the zonules, this is known as a luxated lens. If the lens partially detaches, it is known as a subluxation. If the lens detaches and falls into the anterior chamber of the eye, it is called an anterior lens luxation. If the lens detaches and luxates into the posterior chamber (or vitreous), it is known as a posterior lens luxation.

Drawing Illustrating the Different Types of Anterior Lens Luxation
adapted from M. Zigler, DVM, Cert. Vet. Opthal.

A. normal lens position
B. anterior luxation forcing the iris forward. This results in a very shallow anterior chamber
C. lens is partially through the pupil. If the lens touches the cornea, edema (cloudiness) of the cornea will result
D. complete anterior luxation.

Certain breeds of dogs are genetically predisposed to lens luxation. This is due to an inherited disorder of the zonules, causing them to weaken and/or break. Breeds that are predisposed to this condition include terriers, poodles, bassett hounds, schnauzers, border collies, Australian cattle dogs, Norwegian elkhounds, Shar-Peis, whippets and spaniels.

Lens luxation is a very serious condition that can lead to glaucoma and loss of vision. In cats, subluxated lenses are due to unknown causes; however, lens luxation occurs most commonly as a sequel to FIV (and other viral diseases) induced uveitis. In all species, lens luxation can occur during the later stages of glaucoma. With glaucoma, lens luxation does not occur until long after vision has been lost.

Lens luxation is extremely serious and constitutes a veterinary emergency. It is a vision threatening condition that must be dealt with immediately. A dislodged lens can block the circulation of fluid within the eye. As the fluid builds up, the intra-ocular pressure (pressure within the eye) increases. This can result in acute onset of glaucoma and loss of vision. If the elevated intra-ocular pressure is not resolved within a few hours, irreversible damage to the optic nerve and retina occurs. In addition, an anteriorly luxated lens may cause corneal damage by injuring the inner layer of corneal cells.

Symptoms of lens luxation include pain (rubbing of the eye), an increased production of tears, and a reduction of vision. If the cornea is affected, the eye may appear cloudy. Sometimes, subluxations and posterior luxations show no clinical symptoms and are diagnosed during a routine physical examination.

Anterior Lens Luxation

Luxated Lens with Cataract

Routine eye certification examinations do not usually detect dogs predisposed to lens luxation unless the ligaments have already started to weaken and a slight wobble of the lens is detected by the veterinary ophthalmologist.

Dogs affected with primary lens luxation should not be used for breeding. Since lens luxation is a condition with a late onset (often not before four to seven years of age), it is often difficult to identify affected dogs before they are used for breeding.

A crocodile cannot stick its tongue out.

The ant can lift 50 times its own weight, can pull 30 times its own weight and always falls over on its right side when intoxicated. (Did the government pay for this research??)

Ants Are Incredibly Strong

Polar bears are left-handed.

The flea can jump 350 times its body length. It's like a human jumping the length of a football field.

A cockroach can live nine days without it's head - before it starves to death.

Elephants are the only animals that can't jump. (This is a GOOD thing.)

An ostrich's eye is bigger than it’s brain.

Wow! Does This Mean An Ostrich Is Not Intelligent?

Flea Questions - Take this test to see how much you know about fleas. Answers and explanations are given in the article that follows.

The Flea - Magnified

1. Fleas transmit tapeworms in both dogs and cats.
   True
   False

2. The female cat flea will consume ____ times her own body weight in blood daily.
   5
   10
   15
   20

3. The female cat flea lays about ___ eggs per day on your pet at her peak production.
   10
   25
   50
   100

4. Adult fleas live and breed well over ___ days on the pet if not disturbed.
   10
   25
   50
   100

5. Once fleas begin feeding on your pet and begin to lay eggs, they become dependent for a constant source of blood.
   True
   False

6. Female fleas begin to lay eggs ___________ after their first blood meal.
   12 to 24 hours
   24 to 36 hours
   36 to 48 hours
   48 to 72 hours

7. The flea is a tropical insect and won’t tolerate freezing temperatures for long periods of time.
   True
   False

8. During the _______ months, fleas are most likely surviving as adults on untreated dogs and cats.
   Spring
   Summer
   Fall
   Winter



9. One female cat flea can lay ______ eggs in her lifetime.
   500
   1000
   1500
   2000